A rich, violet color melt to satisfy color change cravings
A few days ago, I had the pleasure of working on a longtime friend for the first time! While I was living on the West Coast, she found someone she trusts with her hair and has been going to her ever since! Her hairdresser is now on maternity leave, and she made sure to give me a call to get on my books.
She was interested in fashion tones, but she is a mom and gets her hair done every eight weeks. With the length and density of her hair, hair color history, and regular at home care, I knew that fashion tones of any sort would fade and lose their beauty well before we saw each other again, IF we saw each other again. Her hairdresser was due to be back behind the chair from maternity leave before her next scheduled appointment, and I didn't want to make any changes that would be difficult to recreate!
We decided that the next best thing to actual fashion tones would be something in the violet family. The color line that I work with has a really beautiful family of violet colors that I thought would work perfectly over her existing hair color!
Her starting palette had roughly 3/4 inch of natural level 5 regrowth with about 15% grey that of course we wanted to cover. Her mids were a faded level 4 (not quite a level 5, but lighter than a 4) and her ends faded into a mix of levels 5 and 8, all warm tones. With the existing dimension in her hair, I wanted to take advantage of it rather than try to completely change her color placement. This would change her color service from a 3.5 hour appointment to a 2.5 hour appointment, AND give us more vibrancy and longevity in her color.
WHAT DID I DO
With our starting canvas already being dimensional, I chose to utilize a full color application from base to ends to give us the overall desired look, focusing more on my formulation than my placement!
15g 4,0 (level 4 natural/neutral)
25g 4,22 (level 4 double violet)
60g 10 Volume
Mids & Ends:
10g 4,22 (level 4 double violet)
50g 6,22 (level 6 double violet)
90g 20 Volume
Processed for 35 minutes
Since her natural regrowth had such a small percentage of grey, I didn't feel the need to formulate for grey coverage. I chose 10 volume to create depth at her base as we were going darker rather than risk exposing underlying warmth with 20 volume, and added a small amount of natural to cut the amount of violet and give her color a more organic appearance. Through her lengths and ends I wanted maximum vibrancy, so I chose 20 volume to give the color extra energy for the brightest reflection of violet!
Once her entire head had been applied, I allowed her color to process for 35 minutes, the recommended processing time as per the manufacturer, then cleansed and conditioned with a shine enhancing color protecting family.
This hair was ready for a healthy cut! I cleaned up 2" from her length and used a dry cutting technique with my shears to give her hair long rounded layers that blended beautifully as well as removed some weight from this very dense head of hair!
I blew her out smooth to allow for refining in our cut with a nutrient dense oil and a blow dry primer, and swooned over this hair! It was shiny, luscious, and had enough violet to satisfy her craving without having major upkeep!
We. Love. This. Hair. It has the cool violet tones requested to give this hair some life and interest WITHOUT the upkeep of fashion tone violets! The shine, overall health, and one step process were well worth the compromise! Just look at this side by side!