Fresh, clean & blended blonde.
Don't you love when your guest wants to switch it up?? Not anything too crazy, but a change from what has become the norm to try something new. For me, it breathes life into an overly familiar head of hair! I'm not a huge fan of "touch up & trim" hair, just as a personal preference. In my personal life as well as my professional life I CRAVE variation, so when my long time guest sits in my chair and tells me they need something new, I'm always on board! In fact, I probably already have 8 ideas in queue.
Previously, we had been touching up her base with a violet level 10 & 40 volume developer. We established that she was sick of the way that style of color grows in, and she wants more variation in tones and an easier grow in. Her natural hair is a level 7, and she lifts fairly easily.
Taking all consultation into consideration, I chose to apply a partial babylight and tone. That's it! Her hair was in excellent condition. We wanted to break up her natural base and her previously colored base to blend it into her bright ends, then tone everything to brighten it back up.
WHAT DID I DO
Starting in the back, I applied a horizontal fine weave in a brick-lay pattern above her occipital. I then moved to her sides and applied her foils in a diagonal back pattern following the angle of her hairline. We then moved to her top two sections (split down the middle as she has a natural side part), and applied her foils in diagonal back pattern following the angle of her hairline.
This entire application took 30 minutes. I began with 1/2 of my lightener formulation and remixed after 15 minutes to ensure that I was always working with a fresh product. When it comes to bleach, it is SO important to know your processing time! With this particular line, the lightener has a 40 minute processing time. This means that after 20 minutes, the most efficient energy from the lightener has been used, and it is now on a decline to it's final resting place. When working to get a clean lift, you want to work with bleach that has the power to get the job done. Had I mixed up one bowl of lightener and used it for her whole head, her last foils applied would NOT get as light as the first foils applied. The bleach would have different processing times, and the bleach would get weaker with each foil applied.
We bumped up her developer by 1/2 of one level when the bleach was remixed. Once all foils were applied, I let her process for 15 minutes, and she was done. That was it. SO EASY.
20g violet based lightener
40g 20 volume (remixed with 25 volume)
24g 10,0 (level 10 neutral)
6g 10,21 (level 10 violet blue)
60g 10 volume
We cleansed twice with a hydrating shampoo, towel dried, and applied our toner from scalp to ends. I allowed her toner to process until it was visually ready (8-10 minutes) then cleansed and conditioned with a color protecting shampoo and conditioner.
She opted out of a trim (since we trimmed last appointment). We blew her out with a nutrient dense leave in conditioner, a silkening blow dry primer, and a shine enhancing oil. Her hair blew out like a dream and didn't require any thermal enhancement to achieve this smooth, reflective finish.
IN THE END
LOVE. THIS. Love everything about this. This hair color makes her natural skin tone absolutely pop! It's softer and more blended, it's icy and silky to the touch. It's total blonde hair goals. Just take a minute to stare at her bright white ends and that graceful up-to-the-base babylight blending out her natural level 7. Dont you just love when a process this easy has this much impact??