The Tease Knees

Updated: Sep 3, 2019

A gorgeous teasy-light and root shade to blend grey and refresh

My beautiful mom friend treated herself to an appointment in my new salon after a full year of not coloring or cutting! She was ready for something fresh and I was so excited to give it to her!

Living at a natural level 6 with very warm level 7 ends, she wanted something fairly low maintenance that was still impactful. She had a small amount of grey (roughly 15%) that she wanted blended out without a hard line of demarcation. She also wanted to see some bright warm neutral blonde.


We wanted to keep her hair low maintenance, as she is the mama of a 1.5 year old with another on the way! There are a lot of options on how to approach this desired outcome, but I already had something in mind.



WHAT DID I DO


We began by cutting a little over 2 inches off of her hair to create health and really make a nice shape for her natural wave. She has a great natural texture, but it was too weighed down and overgrow to live its best life. Once her perimeter and interior were shaped, I was ready to begin her color application.


With any kind of "lived in" color, I prefer cutting first if possible. This keeps me from cutting out the brightest part of her hair after coloring. I decided that in order to blend her grey without creating a line of demarcation in the future, that I was going to use a liquid demi-permanent color through her base and drag it down 3 inches. After applying her base color, I foiled her hairline 3 foils deep with to-the-scalp babylights, then proceeded in a diagonal back chevron sectioning utilizing teasy-lights. I left 1 inch spaces in between to ensure that there was a lot of dimension in her finished color.



Highlight:

30g powdered lightener

60g 30 Volume

processed for 25 minutes


Base (liquid demi-permanent):

30g 6,0 (level 6 neutral)

10g 6,18 (level 6 blue with green)


Toner:

40g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)

40g 10 volume

processed for 15 minutes



She lifted to a very gold level 9 with some pieces of a gold level 10 through her ends. With pregnancy and breastfeeding, the hormones in the hair can change drastically. Under normal circumstances I would have used 20 Volume to lift her hair, but knowing that she has been either pregnant or nursing for over 2 years I opted to use a higher volume. Thank goodness I did! Her hair was more stubborn than I anticipated, and we ended up letting the highlights process for longer than I initially planned on.


Once she had lifted to a level 9, I cleansed her with a nourishing shampoo to remove any lightener residue, towel dried and applied her toner to process for 15 minutes. Once it had finished processing, I cleansed and conditioned with a frizz controlling family, prepped her hair with a nutrient rich leave in conditioner, a hydrating moussed and blew her out. We curled with a 1 1/4 inch iron and used a small amount of medium hold hairspray. This hair looks brand new, completely refreshed and so shiny!


AFTER

BEFORE


FINALE


This hair is going to grow in so gracefully, and be beautiful every step of the way! Follow @theformulationfiles on Instagram to stay up to date on daily happenings and behind the chair videos, and leave a comment below with content that you want to see featured on The Formulation Files!


What I Used:

Davines Mask Bleaching Powder, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products

Dyson Blow Dryer

Reynolds 711 Foils

Hot Tools 1 1/4 Inch Marcel Iron

YS Park Clips




Xoxo,

Willow



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