A big chop and total tone down to give this beauty the hair of a goddess
Do you ever have a week where all of your guests are TOTAL transformations?? That was my week, guys. And THIS head of hair was the last guest in my chair with the biggest chop!
This beautiful mom who travels for work (aka super mom) was ready for something new and fresh! She wanted an angled lob with dimension and bright blonde around her face on the cool side of neutral.
She had a bad experience nearly three years ago that ended in her then platinum blonde hair having a hard time recovering from the process it took to get her there. She's spent the last three years transitioning to lower maintenance color and really focusing on improving the overall integrity. Her hair was in good condition! There wasn't really anything wrong with it, but it didn't look like what she wanted it to. We decided on the length, and that a seamless blend was the most important part of her color followed closely by tone, and got to work!
WHAT DID I DO
Our first step was to CUT! With as much length as we were taking off, it made absolutely no sense to color first. We would end up cutting most of our new color out of the hair! I cut her hair dry to create a blunt triangular perimeter with a shattered triangular interior for body and movement. Once she was cut, I formulated our lightener and reached for the flamboyage! Flamboyage is a sticky adhesive water soluble mesche that grabs hair in a diffused and random pattern giving the hair total blend with no risk of heavy lines. I applied a FULL head of flamboyage from nape to hairline!
20g violet based powder lightener
40g 25 & 30 Volume
Processed 15 minutes
Toner (liquid demi-permanant):
50g 9,78 (level 9 beige with green)
50g 10 Volume
Processed for 20 minutes
I applied all of her flamboyage beginning at the nape of her hair working in horizontal sections. Each section had roughly 1.5 inches in between totaling about 9-10 pieces of flamboyage through the back of her head. I the worked horizontally through the sides of her head, and vertically through the top mowhawk section. At the very end, I popped three very finely woven highlights framing her face knowing that the foil incubated heat, and those hairs are the finest and lift so quickly.
Once everything was applied, it only needed a 15 minute processing time! I had to remix once during my application process, and when I did I bumped up my developer by 1/2 of a level to allow the later applied flamboyage pieces to catch up with the earlier applied.
After 15 minutes, I cleansed her with a softening shampoo, then applied our toner to her damp hair!
The same toner was applied from scalp to ends through ALL of her hair to really tone down all of the brightness that we had just exposed, and any remaining bright and warm tones leftover from her previous color. We allowed this toner to process the full processing time of 20 minutes, then cleansed and conditioned with a beautifying shampoo and conditioner. I prepped her damp hair with a leave in conditioner, nutrient dense oil, and a hydrating mousse for some added bounce! Once dry, I used a medium hold hairspray before curling, then finished her hair with a dry texturizing spray and the same hairspray used for prep.
VA VA VA VOOM! This hair is insane!!! She started as a smokin' hottie and finished as a smokin' hottie, but oh MAN this hair adds that something special!
Here is our end result, friends. Soft, blended, the cool side of neutral, thick, full bodied, soft, shiny and so much more. We both were giddy and parted ways with giant smiles on our faces. Sometimes we get to do real life Pinterest hair, and this was one of those occasions.