Sugar Sugar How'd You Get So Blonde

A complete refresh of white blonde highlights and removal of chlorine green

One of my favorite things to do behind the chair is blonde hair, specifically foiling. Foils are my zen garden, and I will gladly do them All. Day. Long. I inherited this beauty from a former co-worker and was SO excited to see her hair when she sat in my chair!

After a long summer of swimming on previously balayaged hair, this head was ready for a gentle overhaul. The before images don't capture the true reflection of her ends, but there was some serious chlorine absorption causing a green cast through the bottom 5 inches.



It had been three months since her last appointment, and her ends were ready to part ways. There was an overall green cast to this head of hair, and she was ready for a clean, fresh-to-the-base, white palette again. All of these factors lead to a foiling technique to allow for multiple lightener formulas on the different areas of her hair. Before I began coloring, we cut 3 inches off of her length and carved out her hair to give it movement and body again! I love cutting before coloring as often as possible. Even if it's just a couple inches, it makes a big difference in the amount of product being used and application time!


Starting Base: Level 8 neutral

Starting lengths: Variations of level 9 neutral and level 10 pale green

Desired Result: Level 10 cool neutral



WHAT DID I DO

Her natural base carried down 3 inches through the top of her hair, and was nearly 9 inches through the underside of her hair. I wanted a completely clean and cohesive color which meant I had some serious work to do on the underside, and some touching up to do on the top. Her green ends were where I really had to deliberate on how I wanted to address her color application. I knew it would be a lengthy application due to the density of her hair and how many foils it would require. My first option was to foil her regrowth, then apply a bleach bath at the shampoo bowl through her ends to remove the green cast from chlorine build up. My second option was to apply a very gentle lightener formula through her ends in foils. I decided on a technique somewhere in the middle!




Base Highlight:

20g violet bleaching powder

40g 20 & 25 Volume



End Lightener:

18g violet bleaching powder

18g strengthening shampoo

18g 10 Volume

This is the formula for a bleach bath


I ended up choosing to use a bleach bath formulation inside of a foil to pull through her dull ends. With so much of her natural level 8 living underneath her hair, I didn't want to risk exposing unwanted warmth by doing a traditional bleach bath at the bowl. By utilizing this formulation in a foil I was able to apply it only to prelightened hair that needed brightening up in the most gentle fashion. This allowed for maintained integrity of the hair with maximum results! I began at her nape and worked my way forward. By beginning in her nape area, I give myself the cushion needed with a timely application like this. By the time all of her foils are finished being applied, it was time to rinse the first foils. With the first foils being in the back of her head, it was very simple to pull those foils and rinse them out while still allowing the front to process!


I used a precision application utilizing my first formula through her natural regrowth, and my second "bleach bath" formula through her prelightened lengths and ends. When her whole application was finished (a few minutes longer than an hour), I started pulling the foils from the back of her head and rinsed. We allowed her last applied foils to process for a total of 15 minutes, which brought her hair to a gorgeous level 10 with slight pale yellow undertones. We then toned her with a liquid demi-permanent color on towel dried hair. THIS TONER, GUYS. It's a new favorite. At the minimum processing time of 10 minutes on damp hair, this toner made our wildest dreams come true.


Toner (liquid demi-permanent):

10g 7,21 (level 7 violet with blue)

30g Gloss (clear)

40g 10 Volume


This iced her out enough to give us that bright white we were desperate for without flattening her out at all. Often times with cool toners it's hard to get that "bright" look without drabbing out the overall appearance of the color. Cool tones tend to absorb light, and we wanted something that SHINED. The depth and intensity of the violet and blue at a level 7 diluted to the level 10 that we wanted really lent to giving the control needed while still having that diamond finish. This hair is SOFT. It is healthy, bouncy, silky and hit our end goal right on the money!


As we had already cut her hair before coloring, all I had to do was get her cleansed and styled. I used a nourishing shampoo and conditioner made for bleach treated hair, a nutrient dense leave in conditioner and a hydrating mousse to blow her out. We used a defining mist pre thermal style to protect and prepare the hair, and a lightweight working hairspray to polish and complete her look.


FINALE


While some of the changes we made were subtle, they completely altered the overall look and health of her hair. This color on her skin tone is a little bit of magic, and I am so thrilled with what we were able to do in our time together! It doesn't hurt to have guests who are basically super models either.




Tools Used:

Framar Star Struck Silver light embossed foils

Davines Century Of Light bleach collection & View demi permanent color

Dyson Supersonic blow dryer

Hot Tools 1 1/4 inch marcel curling iron



Xoxo,

Willow



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