A satisfying refresh with a healthy chop and brighter blonde
I'm just going to start this by saying I dropped the ball. This gorgeous head of hair was sandwiched in one of those double booked days where if you have enough time to slam a glass of water, it's a victory. My first guest was 15 minutes late, which means that ALL of my guests didn't get started until 15 minutes late. So today friends, I don't have a processing picture, and I am sorry. Because it was a killer process. BUT we do have a good before and after, and that counts for something!
This guest was a new referral from an existing guest that I JUST love, so I already knew we were going to have fun. It had been 5 months since her last color, and she wanted something fun and fresh for the change in weather!
The first set of instructions i was given was that she wanted a long bob, which I am ALL about when you have a neck like hers! The second set was brighter pops of blonde with dimension, and that she wanted it on the cooler side without it being that silvery tone, which again, I am ALL about. Thank you, next on the intense ash blondes guys.
This is our starting point. When it comes to gradient color, I prefer to cut before coloring when possible. At least a rough shaping. The last thing that you want to do is put in all of this hard work for the perfect blend, the perfect saturation, just the right amount of light and dark, and then cut all of your color off. That's devastating.
WHAT DID I DO
Once we cut a collarbone length square line, I decided to use Flamboyage as my tool to create a gradient bright blonde. Flamboyage is a brand specific sticky mesche with a water soluble adhesive so that it breaks down and slides right out of the hair with warm water. Flamboyage grabs random pieces of hair by application which quickly and easily allows for a blended finished result with minimal effort. You can check out a video of flamboyage application (on a different guest) here!
Starting level: 6,0 (Level 6 Natural / Neutral)
Desired Blonde Color: Level 10 Beige
20g Violet Lightening Powder
40g 25 Volume
Processed for 35 minutes
Toner (liquid demi-permanant):
15g 9,78 (level 9 beige (green yellow) with green)
15g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)
10g Gloss (clear dilution)
40g 10 Volume
Processed for 12 minutes
Once her flamboyage was applied, we allowed it to process for 35 minutes until she lifted to a true level 10. I brought her to the shampoo bowl and began applying warm water at a low pressure to the flamboyage mesche until they slid out of the hair. We cleansed twice with a nourishing shampoo to ensure that all lightener residue was removed from the hair so that her toner could properly do its job, then towel dried. Her toner was applied from roots to ends and emulsified for full saturation. After 12 minutes, we cleansed and conditioned with a line made specifically for bleach treated hair.
I then finished her haircut by cleaning up her square line (or one length) while wet, and using my straight razor to "tip" her interior. This is the act of taking the toe of your razor and gently removing weight in a woven pattern to give a more sleek and skinny finish on the haircut, as well as create texture and movement. I very rarely cut one length hair without utilizing this technique.
I then prepped her hair with an anti free radical mist, a color protecting serum, and a nutrient dense oil and blew her out with volume. Obviously a head of gradient color isn't complete without large curls, so we finished with a defining mist and a 1 1/4 inch iron.
We were both SO happy with these results!! Her hair was completely refreshed, she had bright pops of beige-y blonde, her ends were SO healthy, and the look overall completely suites her! You guys know I LOVE a good blonde, and this hair is most definitely a good blonde.