Platinum Is A Girls Best Friend

Updated: Jun 5, 2019

The process of creating a head of white blonde hair

This is one of my regular guests who was previously featured here. Her goal has always been to be Pinterest platinum blonde, but with our starting point, I was very skeptical. To give a short hair history, when I began working on her hair, she had bands of levels 3, 5 and 8. It was quite the array of colors and levels, and the color line that had been used on her wasn't a favorite of mine to say the least. I know it to be very resistant to change, flat and progressive.

Having had nothing on her hair but my preferred color line for the past year, as well as a very strict at home regimen, this was the first time that I thought we had a shot to reach our end goal!

Her outgrowth was a strong level 5, with existing highlights through her lengths and ends. She didn't love a hard line of demarcation and comes in every 4-5 weeks to have her highlights retouched and toned.

This was our starting point! Outgrown highlights with a pretty dark natural base.

Her ends were a pretty solid blonde, as we were previously doing a bleach and tone on her until the upkeep became too much. My game plan was to keep dimension at her base, and to keep her ends a solid blonde, but to make it all much lighter and brighter!


I began by touching up her highlights in the same foil pattern we have been using.


20g Violet Lightening Powder

40g 25, 30 & 35 Volume Developer

Processed for 20 minutes

Since we have an extensive hair history together, I already know that her natural keratin is STRONG, needing muscle AND time to get a good lift. As we were shooting for platinum this time, I knew it wasn't the day to shy away from a stronger formulation for our lightener.


I started her foils in the back, in case by the time we finished they were ready to be rinsed. I ensured to remix her lightener every 15 minutes to keep the lightener fresh and active, resulting in a more even and clean lift. By the time I finished her application, I had remixed three times with 25, 30 & 30 volume respectively. Once her full head was applied, I allowed it to process for another 18-20 minutes, until her last foils had lifted to a level 10 with minimal warmth.

At this point I removed all of her foils, cleansed her twice with a shampoo made for brittle and bleach processed hair, and applied a soft cosmetic pigment removal through her already blonde lengths and ends to achieve a soft lift.

A soft cosmetic pigment removal (or bleach wash, bleach bath, etc) is made of equal parts lightener, developer & shampoo. It is applied to wet hair at the bowl and processes for 10 minutes or less.

Once I had fully applied through her lengths and ends, I used my hands to massage her hair in a downward motion for cuticle health and to work a little extra warmth through for lift. The process lasted a total of 8 minutes, and we got to a pure level 10 without warmth.

Once her ends had lifted, I cleansed her again with a shampoo made for brittle and bleach processed hair. I then took her back to my chair, towel dried her, applied a leave in conditioner, and applied our toner over the top of that.

Toner (liquid demi-permanent):

40g Gloss (Clear)

5g Amethyst (Violet without a level)

45g 10 Volume

Processed for 20 minutes

Once her toner had completed processing, I cleansed her a final time with shampoo made for brittle and bleach processed hair and conditioned with the corresponding conditioner. I applied a nutrient rich oil, a protective leave in conditioner, and a heat protectant to her wet hair, then blew her dry and curled. WE DID NOT CUT THIS HAIR AT ALL.


SHE'S PLATINUM Y'ALL! Unfortunately our final images were taken at night with the help of a ring light, but I promise you this hair shines BRIGHT in natural sunlight! Her hair still felt nice, had no breakage, and even though she had bleach foiled to her scalp and pulled through her ends, we didn't have to cut. At home care COUNTS, it's 95% of how your guests hair is treated, and helps create endless possibilities for what we can do for them!

As you've already read here, I will be headlining in an independently run hair show, The Artistic Collective, this September 29th & 30th in Chicago, IL! I will of COURSE be teaching color theory IN PERSON, and it's something you don't want to miss!! We have a start studded line up of educators and I couldn't be more excited to be sharing the stage with these industry giants!! Right now, the tickets are $675, and I recommend to JUMP ON THEM because the price will be raising to $775 on 6/1! All purchases of Dreaming In Color get you a code for $100 off your ticket purchase, so grab a book AND your ticket at the price of $575 just for my book supporters!

Line up as follows:







@hairbywillow / @theformulationfiles