Soft balayage with a deep base for longevity in color life and an organic appearance.
My favorite way to build my business (which I practice almost exclusively) is by referral. Having been behind the chair for 10 years, I've designated the guest referral as my FAVORITE type of new guest. You have already established yourself as the expert to them. Their friend, family member, co-worker, etc. has vouched for you, given them your contact information, and they have already seen and liked your work. Some of the hardest work has already been done for you, and you get to just dive in and focus on the task at hand; giving your new guest the amazing hair that they want and deserve.
After establishing that my wonderful guest Rapunzel (remember her from this post?) sent me her girlfriend, we got right to business discussing her color desires. Using my 9 staple consultation questions, we concluded that she prefers to see controlled warmth, depth at her base, and no hard line of demarcation. She prefers to go 12 weeks in between appointments and is not currently using a professional shampoo and conditioner.
When I heard that she prefers not to see any demarcation, I immediately knew that we would use a demi-permanent color at her base. Her starting base level was a 5. Demi-permanent color only allows for deposit, which in this scenario was exactly what we wanted. Her existing balayage matched up to warm 7 with some threads of 8 living through the ends.
WHAT DID I DO
I began by applying her base color. The demi-permanent line that I use has intelligent technology that allows it to stop processing when it is complete, WHICH IS NOT COMMON IN DEMI'S. In a situation where you are applying a full balayage and a full base color, the chances of having her base rinsed at the end of that base colors processing time are slim to none. Usually it will sit at least 15-20 minutes past when you would rinse if it was just a base color. This situation is more relevant when working with a base color and balayage rather than foil work, as once the hand painting has been done you do NOT want to move it to avoid any shift or transfer of the bleach onto hair it was not intended for. This was another excellent reason to work with a demi. Having an acidic color sitting on her hair in comparison to an alkalic color will leave her hair in MUCH better condition.
Once her base was applied, I began painting in the back (like I always do) because the first sections applied will be the first sections finished processing. Beginning in the back allows for me to easily rinse the hair once that sections processing is complete while allowing the sides and top to continue processing to completion. I tend to work very quickly when balayaging and can complete a full head in around 30 minutes. With that in mind, I mixed 1/2 of my bleach formula to begin as I wanted to ensure it stayed active the entire time I was applying. If the application would take me close to an hour, I would remix 3 times to ensure my bleach was always active.
Base Color (liquid demi) :
40g 4,14 (level 4 blue based ash with copper)
40g 10 volume
40g clay based lightener
80g 25 volume
Toner (liquid demi):
40g 9,32 (level 9 gold with violet)
40g 10 volume
Once her balayage was fully applied, it only needed to process for 20 minutes. She lifted BEAUTIFULLY! *SIDE NOTE* Who else is obsessed with processing pictures?! I swear sometimes I prefer a processing picture to a good before and after. Something about the intention of a clean application really gets me going.
Once she finished processing, we cleansed with a color protecting shampoo TWICE to remove any bleach residue from the hair, then towel dried. I applied her demi-permanent toning formula at the bowl and allowed for it to process for 10 minutes. The processing time for this particular line is 5-20 minutes on either damp or dry hair. After 10 minutes she was visually the perfect level and tone, so we cleansed again with a color protecting shampoo and finished with the corresponding conditioner. After a good clean up (or a heavy trim) to maintain health and shape without removing length, we blew her out with a curl enhancing serum and a nutrient rich leave in conditioner with lots of bend through her lengths.
IN THE END
This hair turned out absolutely soft, silky, organic, and blended. It is exactly what we both wanted to see! She went home with the proper hair care to maintain this gorgeous color until we see each other again in 12 weeks, her follow up appointment already set, and a giant smile on her face. Don't you love when the process is simple??