When indecision strikes, always go violet
I'm sure you guys recognize this gorgeous mug from previous posts such as this. This beautiful soul is one of my religious blondes who takes THE most perfect care of her hair. We play around with various tones and placements, generally inspired by the seasons. The consultation for this appointment was hilarious. It started with images of varying shades of violet, rose gold, and a high contrast balayaged blonde look.
With any blondes who are looking for a big change, I always err on the side of caution. Leaning toward the change that will be easiest to revert back to brilliant blonde in the (very likely) case that the guest misses their blonde immediately. This sets you both up for success. The worst case scenario is that we make it darker at their next appointment, rather than having to deal with a color correction. Knowing that rose gold can fade to an unwanted brassy cast, and that creating lasting depth would require using permanent color on her perfectly clean blonde, my heart was instantly in the violet game.
Her natural base is a level 7 with very strong natural keratin. Anything less than 30 volume lifts her to neon yellow. She had 6 weeks of regrowth and level 10 highlights running throughout most of her hair. We decided to use her naturally rooted base to our advantage, and just foil around her hairline to make her color appear intentionally rooted.
The color line that I work with offers a variety of fashion tones in the liquid demi-permanent line. This was my immediate choice as demi-permanent colors lift easily out of the hair, and fades nicely.
Our past few color sessions have been heavily highlighting her hair and toning to an intentionally warm blonde. She wanted to embrace bright, controlled warmth through the summer months and was ready for a big change!
WHAT DID I DO
I treated this hair as a double process to get the best punch of pigment possible with the most longevity. We started by foiling her hairline 3 foils deep with 30 volume lightener, processing until she reached a level 10, then cleansing and blow drying. 30 volume may sound aggressive for her hairline, but the hair around her face is the same density and texture as the hair in her crown. She has a very strong natural keratin, and lifted to a clean level 10 in 20 minutes with no heat.
We left the rest of her hair alone to utilize the natural root that she had grown over the last 6 weeks. The below picture shows her refreshed hairline, and the rest of her hair leftover from our last appointment. From here, it was a simple full color application using the fashion colors in my preferred demi-permanent color line.
12g powdered lightener
24g 30 Volume
processed for 20 minutes
Violet (liquid demi-permanent):
30g Amethyst (level-less blue violet)
30g Quartz (level-less pale rosey violet)
60g 10 Volume
processed for 20 minutes
The maximum processing time for this demi-permanent line is 20 minutes. For maximum intensity and longevity, it is done on dry hair. As with all fashion tones, this will fade. I chose to do violet instead of rose gold because it will fade to a gorgeous icy blonde rather than a brassy faded fashion tone.
We applied this formula from base to ends taking care to fully saturate each section, then let it process for 20 minutes. When her processing time was complete, we cleansed and conditioned with a color protecting family, then prepared her with a nutrient dense leave in conditioner. From there, we layered a hydrating mousse and volume building mist, then blew her out with volume.
To curl, I prepped the hair with a non aerosol medium hold hairspray, then curled in sections with a 1 1/4 inch iron at 350 degrees. This hair looked and felt like a dream!
My absolute favorite thing about this hair is that even though it is an obviously unnatural color, it looks believable. Soft, healthy, shiny, and the perfect tone of lilac. Follow @theformulationfiles on Instagram to stay up to date on daily happenings and behind the chair videos, and leave a comment below with content that you want to see featured on The Formulation Files!
What I Used:
Davines Liberty Bleaching Powder, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products
Dyson Blow Dryer
Reynolds 711 Foils
Hot Tools 1 1/4 Inch Marcel Iron
YS Park Clips