Updated: Feb 3, 2019
The journey from overgrown and unsure, to BLONDE AF.
Blondes REALLY get my blood flowing. There is something about that light, bright canvas that JUST does it for me. It's my favorite color, my favorite challenge, and dare I say specialty. In my eyes, all blonding is a form of color correction. There is always a compensation factor that needs to be accounted for whether it be the integrity of the hair, the strength of natural keratin, the cosmetically pigmented starting point, a proper toner (or multiple toners for various zones depending on the canvas you're beginning with), etc.
This woman came to me in need of an overhaul, due to indecision. She took her time to weigh her options before committing to the color and upkeep that she wanted, and then sought me out to deliver her the perfect blonde. THIS WAS THE BEST GIFT SHE COULD HAVE GIVEN ME.
Since she was unsure of exactly what route she wanted to go (but was an experienced blonde veteran), she knew that the best thing she could do for both her hair and I was to wait until she reached a decision. Our starting canvas was mid length outgrown blonde balayage with her outgrown areas being a level 6 natural warm. Her ends were variations of a level 7 natural warm and a level 9 with moderate gold tones. It wasn't a bad place to start!
WHAT DID I DO
During our consultation we decided that although she LOVES being solid platinum blonde, that it was just too much upkeep for her. She has a busy schedule and it just doesn't allow for us to see each other every 2-4 weeks. We decided that the best way we could replicate that bright platinum blonde without the commitment would be to do a full foil this time, a face framing foil with balayage the next time, and stagger our appointments every 6 weeks as such moving forward. This would allow for a beautiful grow in while still maintaining that BRIGHT and striking blonde that she loves!
I began by sectioning her hair down the middle from the hairline to her nape. From there, I divided her head in two at the top of the crown to her mastoids (behind her ears). In her front two quadrants, I sectioned a final time horizontally at the parietal ridge on either side. Everything was applied as a babylight in varying diagonal patterns following her hairline. When applying her foils, I used two different formulas for her natural hair and prelightened hair inside of the same foil, ensuring to fold in half and then in half again so that the two different volume lighteners did not touch.
Natural Hair Formula :
20g violet based lightener
40g 30 volume
Prelightened Hair Formula:
20g violet based lightener
40g 15 volume
I began her application in the back because I had an idea that this application would take a while. A full head of babylights is labor intensive, and totally like a zen garden if you ask me. Foiling is my happy place and I wish more people wanted up to the scalp, grow out of your head, brand new looking blonde. I DIGRESS.
It took me nearly one hour to apply her full head of babylights. During the entire process I remixed each formula 3 times, meaning that I never used bleach more than 20 minutes old. The bleach that I used on her has a life of 40 minutes, meaning that at 20 minutes it has reached its peak energy and is going to start slowing down. SO, before putting lightener on her head that is beginning to die, I mixed a fresh bowl. As soon as I finished her application, I began to pull her foils in the back to avoid over-processing. Once they were pulled, I used a spray water bottle and a towel to begin removing the bleach from her hair. I continued to let the remaining hair process until it had reached a level 10 pale yellow blonde, at which point we were ready to shampoo and tone.
I shampooed her twice with a nourishing shampoo for bleached hair to ensure that any residue was removed from the hair to allow the toner to do it's job.
20g 10,21 (level 10 violet blue)
20g 12,21 (extralift beyond blonde violet blue)
80g 5 volume
I applied her toner on damp hair from base through midshaft careful to leave out her ends that had a slightly higher porosity. I allowed the hair to process for 10 minutes, then pulled the toner through her ends and processed for another 4. Once our process was done, I shampooed and conditioned with a nourishing family for bleached hair. Before styling, I prepped the hair with a restorative leave in conditioner, a hydrating oil and an amino acid building foam. We blew her out with volume, curled, and were OBSESSED with our results!
Sassy, fresh, so clean, just love this blonde. My beautiful guest couldn't stop beaming from ear to ear, and I swear to glob that is just the the most heart warming feeling in the world. Shine on, my blonde goddess. Shine on.