I Like Beige Hair And I Cannot Lie

How we created a sustainable blonde from a chlorinated overgrown bleach out.

You know those days where you are FEELING a full foil? Like, craving it deep inside your soul? This head of hair was one of those days. I had a new referral at the end of my day who is the daughter of an existing guest, and knew that she was coming in as a bleach and tone. But I was feeling foils SO HARD.


My guest showed up with this head of hair. It was roughly 3 months outgrown, as she lives away at school. The real kicker here is that she is a competitive swimmer! Like, collegiate breast stroke sprinting swimmer, totally bad ass, right?! Her hair had the typical look, feel and smell of someone who lives in a pool.




WHAT DID I DO


What struck a chord for me was her telling me that she only gets her hair done every 3-4 months. A typical bleach and tone needs to be performed every 4 weeks max to ensure even lift. Upon further consultation she also shared that her hair is never as cool as she would like it (even when first leaving the salon), and that she's open to new ideas. To me, this screamed dimensional color; babylights to be specific. Foil work will give her the cleanest lift, as the aluminum incubates heat created by the lighteners chemical reaction. Incorporating some of her natural growth into her blonde will allow for a more seamless grow out over the next 3-4 months as well. No hard line of demarcation!


We both agreed on a full head of babylights. She wanted to stay bright blonde, and pulls her hair up often so the underneath needed to be properly addressed. It currently had 3 inches of level 7 outgrowth. Her hair was very fine and was already beginning to lighten from constant contact with chlorine, so I was able to stay gentle in my formulation.


Formula:

12g violet based lightener

24g 15 volume


Second Remix:

12g violet based lightener

24g 20 volume


Third Remix:

12g violet based lightener

24g 25 volume



I began foiling her in the back knowing that I would likely have to rinse these foils first due to application time. From start to finish this head took 55 minutes, and we applied roughly 85 foils. I remixed her formula 3 separate times to ensure that the bleach I was using was always active and fresh to give me the clean lift that I needed. Once the application was complete, the back had already finished processing. I took her to the shampoo bowl (careful to clip her hair and foils still in need of processing time out of the way) and pulled and rinsed her foils thoroughly. We then towel dried and brought her back to my chair for her remaining processing time.


Once the rest of her foils had caught up (about another 15 minutes), I brought her back to the shampoo bowl, cleansed twice with a tomato based nourishing shampoo for brittle processed hair, and applied her toner from base to ends.


Toner:

30g 10,21 (level 10 violet blue)

60g 5 volume


Once her toner was applied and she was evenly saturated, we processed for 10 minutes until her warmth was controlled, then cleansed and conditioned with the same products as before. Finishing up with a much needed cut to rid her hair of the ends that were no longer serving her, and styling with an oil and leave in conditioner for softness, shine and protection, we were both thrilled with the end result! Her hair was soft, shiny, and smelled SO GOOD!



FINALE

This hair was a project, but for what we did I couldn't be more excited about the results! She came in with outgrown hair that she couldn't keep up with, and left with lower maintenance, light bright blonde that is sustainable for her lifestyle. How gorgeous is she?!



Xoxo,

Willow






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