When a natural level 7 needs bleach with a little extra muscle
This little beauty graced my chair for the first time last week, and oooohhhh boy did we make a change!! She came in with the longest, thickest, most Rapunzel head of hair wanting to get rid of it! As a mother of two with a demanding career, it was too much work for her to style, so she simply didn't. She really didn't have much direction to give outside of wanting to take off a LOT of length, and liking bright blonde.
Naturally a level 7 with no grey, her natural keratin is STRONG. Even though the goal was to lift her 3 levels, I needed something stronger than I would with the usual head of level 7 hair.
With this big of a transformation in her cut, it made sense to complete her haircut prior to coloring. We gave her a square line with very texturized slightly rounded layers, cutting entirely dry. I utilized a high elevation back slicing layering technique for maximum weight removal and overall movement of her hair. Once she was completely cut, I was able to apply her color without risking cutting out the brightest parts of her hair, the ends!
WHAT DID I DO
I began with her hairline, working three foil packets deep with 1/8 of an inch between the foils. This creates clean lift in a "money piece" placement. The first foil around her entire hairline is a very fine slice, the second a very fine slice, and the third a babylight. This allows for a gradation between "money piece" and the darker space left right behind the money piece to create contrast and depth. Once her hairline was applied, I foiled her front two quadrants in radial sectioning using a teasy light application. When these were completed, I worked my way through the back two quadrants working in a diagonal back pattern.
50g violet powdered lightener
100g 30 volume
Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
25g 9,0 (level 9 natural/neutral)
25g Gloss (clear)
2g Amethyst (Level-less Blue Violet)
52g 10 volume
Processed for 15 minutes
I used 30 Volume lightener to break through her very strong natural keratin and get a clean lift. In most cases when working with a natural level 7 it is better to opt for a lower volume developer because less muscle is needed to lift 3 levels. In this case 10 or 20 would not have gotten the job done, and would have left us with extremely yellow hair.
After all of her foils were applied, I allowed her to process for 30 full minutes before cleansing and toning. I applied her toner to towel dried hair and let it sit for 15 minutes before cleansing and conditioning with a nourishing family! To style, I used a volume boosting mousse and a nutrient dense oil. We blew her out with volume then curled with a 1 1/4 inch marcel iron, finishing with a strong hold hairspray to give longevity to her style. While the process may not look glamorous (and we all know I love a good clean processing picture) the end result was to die for! She had the blingiest blonde hugging her face with bright pops throughout. Her hair looked and felt SO healthy!
The biggest triumph in this formulation was the high volume developer used! Had we used any less energy, achieving blonde this clean wouldn't have been possible. This gorgeous mama of two will get to love this hair every step of the process because the grow in will be seamless.
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What I Used:
Davines Century Of Light Progress Lightener, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products
Dyson Blow Dryer
Reynolds 711 Foils
Paul Mitchell Round Brush
YS Park Clips