Refreshing an extremely long, high contrast head of cool toned color
All right, y'all. I KNOW you remember Rapunzel. Shes a favorite on this blog simply because we are ALWAYS changing this hair up, and due to length of time between appointments it's always a little correction-esque. Rapunzel did not disappoint! We even went so far as to get a little video content for your visual stimulation pleasure.
Beginning with a virgin level 6 base, very faded colored level 6 mids, and faded level 7 ends, we were ready for a clean slate. The last time Rapunzel was in, we gave her the most luscious smokey lavender. This faded to red undertones through her previous base, and flat blonde on her ends.
Today, Rapunzel was ready for a full refresh. After achieving our desired lightness roughly three appointments ago, we had been doing variations of a dark base and light ends using her existing placement. Gauging from the picture the our right, you can clearly see that she was ready for some new color placement! We're talking pops of bright, cool blonde with contrasting cool darkness.
WHAT DID I DO
I began by color matching her base. I have been working behind the chair for 11 years, educating with this specific color line for nearly 6 years, and coloring Rapunzels hair for over one full year. I STILL COLOR MATCH HER. I need to ensure that her natural color has not changed, determine our starting level and tone, match what her midshaft has faded to, and match what her ends have faded to. I can eyeball all day long, but until every part of her color has an identity, all formulation is guess work. Be the best colorist you can be, and work with precision!
Starting Base: Virgin level 6
Starting Midshaft: Natural Warm level 6
Starting Ends: Neutral level 7
To start her color application, I began by touching up her regrowth. From there, I utilized negative space highs and lows (demonstrated below) to give the most blend while breaking up the dark that had begun to overtake her hair. Because her midshaft had existing cosmetic pigment on it, I opted to use a stronger lightener. Her ends had been previously lifted, and were starting at a lighter color, so I opted for a more gentle lightener.
40g 4,18 (level 4 blue based ash with green)
60g 10 volume
Midshaft: 30 volume violet powdered lightener
Ends: 10 volume violet powdered lightener
Both formulas mixed 1:2
20g 6,71 (level 6 beige with blue)
30g 10 volume
Base Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
23g 6,0 (level 6 natural / neutral)
17g 8,23 (level 8 violet with gold)
40g 10 volume
Processed for 15 minutes
End Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
30g 8,23 (level 8 violet with gold)
30g 10 volume
Processed for 10 minutes
This is a whole lot of formulas. Lets break this down and make it easy! Her base color was applied first. This formula is a level 6, which is 2 levels darker than her starting point. Because we were going less than 3 levels darker, I chose 10 volume as my developer. I had the option of using 20 volume, but I personally feel like 10 volume gives more depth when going darker. This does not make this color formula a demi permanent, it is just choosing the appropriate amount of energy needed to go from a virgin level 6 to a cool level 4.
We then applied her negative space highs and lows. For her highlights, I used 30 volume lightener on her previously colored midshaft to break through the dark and get a clean, bright lift. I pulled 10 volume through her previously lightened ends to brighten them up and remove old color. For her lowlights, I used a formula that was the same level she was already living at. Because we were only shifting her tone, not her level, I opted again for 10 volume to give more depth. When placing this in foils, I painted this down through her midshaft, leaving her ends out. This retained her blonde ends so that we did not make her too dark.
Once she had finished processing, I chose two separate toners to give a gradation to her hair. The base toner was formulated to be 1.5 levels deeper than her end toner, giving depth and a cool reflection to her highest placed highlights. Her end toner was simply a beautiful cool tone to remove any warmth living in her hair.
We were both thrilled with the result! LONG, soft, reflective as hair can get, dimension, contrast, cool toned and so much more. This refresh was so very needed, and couldn't have turned out better!
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What I Used:
Davines Mask With Vibrachrom Permanent Color, Century Of Light Progress Lightener, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products
Dyson Blow Dryer