Dancing In The Dark

A high contrast transformation for life after extensions

COVID HAIRDRESSING. Amiright? To say the last 11 months have been hard on us is an understatement. For some, its been a huge financial adjustment. For others, emotional health has been the biggest challenge. Regardless of what state you work in, we have all had to make major adjustments to the way that we work every day, and how we can best service our guests.


I, for one, have noticed a huge change in many of my guests hair. Most have experienced quite a bit of stress induced hair loss, which has resulted in more stress on their behalf, and some adjusting of their color and cuts on mine. This post is one such guest.

This gorgeous goddess has been a beaded weft guest for the last 1.5 years. Her hair has always responded very well to Davines color and the extensions that we use. No stress, no damage, just happy hair. Less than one month ago, she started to see significant hair loss that began to impact her extension hair placement. For overall well being, we decided to give her hair a rest until we notice sizable regrowth in her areas impacted by stress induced hair loss.


Once we removed her extension hair, her color placement became darker and more drab. Her extensions added 18" of length, with the majority of the hair being bright blonde. We decided to embrace her new length, and completely change her color to erase the reminder of what her hair used to look like, and give her a fresh start!


WHAT DID I DO


The starting point with her hair color was a level 5 base, dimensional mids, and solid level 9 ends. With her extension hair out, we had the opportunity for a color overhaul. The game plan was to elongate her dark root, give her a bright and pop-y money piece, lighten up her ends, and create a much cooler tone overall!


Base Color (liquid demi-permanent):

20g 4,18 (level 4 blue based ash with green)

20g 5,0 (level 5 neutral)

40g 10 volume

Processed for 20 minutes


Mid-lengths (liquid demi-permanent):

12g 5,0 (level 5 neutral)

12 6,71 (level 6 beige with blue)

24g 10 Volume

Processed for 20 minutes


Highlight (blended through prelightened ends only):

20g Violet powdered lightener

40g 10 Volume

Processed for 20 minutes


Money Piece:

8g Violet powdered lightener

12g 20 Volume

Processed for 20 minutes


Toner (liquid demi-permanent):

25g 7,21 (level 7 violet with blue)

35g Gloss (clear)

1g Amethyst (level-less violet)

61g 10 Volume

Processed for 15 minutes



Knowing that we would likely want to go brighter blonde down the road, I chose to work exclusively with demi-permanent hair color. Because her base level formula was so dark, using demi-permanent was the only way to ensure that we would be able to get the desired lift through it in a single process in the future.


I began by applying her base, leaving out a solid inch around her hairline to highlight her money piece. Her base was applied and dragged down about 4 inches. I then applied her small 20 volume formula in a heavy babylight chevron placement around her hairline to create a bright money piece. Next, I sliced her back and sides in a diagonal back pattern with back to back foils. Every other foil I applied her mid-length formula from the end of her base color, leaving her ends out to retain some of the blonde. The following foil was then our 10 volume lightner formula applied full saturation through her ends, back-feathered to just below where her base color was applied. This was done to create more contrast, and give her brighter pops of blonde throughout her hair. Her top mowhawk was applied in the same manner, only vertical in application.


Once her color application was complete, we processed without heat for 20 minutes. At the end of her processing time, I rinsed her color, towel dried, then applied her toner to sit for the full 20 minute processing time. Her hair was cleansed and conditioned with a shine enhancing beautifying family to give a smooth, shiny blow out.


Her hair was blown out with a density thickening mist, an amino acid bond building foam, and a thermal protecting leave in conditioner. We curled her hair in large sections with a small barrel iron, and loaded her up on texture spray and a light hairspray!


AFTER

FINALE


Honestly, circumstances aside, this might be my favorite color combination that we have done on her! We have been living for this color, and will be rocking it for a while!


Follow @theformulationfiles on Instagram to stay up to date on daily happenings and behind the chair videos, and leave a comment below with content that you want to see featured on The Formulation Files!


What I Used:

Davines Progress Powdered Lightener, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products

Dyson Blow Dryer

Framar Foils

Shuhari Pro Round Brush

YS Park Clips

Shears Hattori Hanzo 6" HHV Mamba , 6" HH1 Kamikaze & HHVT2 Mamba Texturizer




Xoxo,

Willow






109 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All