Part 2 of a balayage gone wrong, turned into the kind of hair that gives you an irresponsible amount of confidence.
HOT. DAMN. This hair. This beautiful, Pinterest worthy, shiny, healthy head of hair. The kind of hair you can only get from round two of a color correction you had all the confidence in the world to rock, and had to wait what felt like a decade to perform. I LOVE THIS HAIR.
If you guys remember from my last post, this beauty came in with a head of hair that she did not want. We did a mini color correction in the short amount of time we had available, parted ways (with excellent product to maintain her hair in between visits) and waited 3 months to see each other next. So when she came and sat in my chair this day with THIS hair, I was pretty pleased.
Her hair was outgrown, but still fairly blended. It felt excellent and had grown quite a bit. Overall, this was an excellent starting point for us to go much lighter at todays appointment.
I knew that there was a band of level 3 cosmetic pigment (that blended perfectly into her natural base color) that could be a challenge to lift as light as I wanted, but with our end goal being darker at the base and lighter through her lengths and ends, I felt fairly confident that we could get her there.
WHAT DID I DO
My guest is a mother of three, and works full time. Her ability to commit to hair appointments is minimal, so her hair needs to look fabulous for three months at a time. In my mind, I know that starting with truly overgrown hair color placement doesn't lend to longevity in her hair color. It will only look fresh for a month or two, then it will look more outgrown than it is. I made the decision to utilize a very fine weave and do a full foil on her hair, toning her base darker and her ends lighter to create a gradient effect without actually leaving her with a long root.
By utilizing foil work as my technique, I knew that I was very in control of my color placement, and that the foil would incubate lift which would help move that band of cosmetically pigmented level three to where I needed it to be.
My plan was as follows:
-Take 1/2 inch sections
- Use a fine and wide weave to give her lift without completely taking away her natural depth
-Use two different lightener formulations. One stronger to cut through her level three, the other more gentle to lift her level 8 to a 10.
-Tone her base with a darker formula and her lengths and ends with a lighter formula
-Trim and style
Highlight Base Formula :
12g violet based lightener
24g 25, 30 & 35 volume
Remixed every 15 minutes, each remix the developer was bumped up
Highlight End Formula:
12g violet based lightener
24g 10 & 15 volume
Remixed every 15 minutes, developer was bumped at the final remix
Inside each foil, I painted our first formula through everything that was a level 3, and our second formula through everything that was a level 8. The idea was to give a soft lift through her ends to brighten her overall look, and also to break up the solid color at her base while still maintaining depth. I applied her back two quadrants in a diagonal back chevron, her sides in a radial placement starting at her hairline, and her mowhawk section in a diagonal back over her natural part. Because our weave was very fine and very wide, I knew that the color wouldn't overpower her hair by placing it over her part. This is what she looked like post application.
Once everything was applied, we processed for 20 minutes, then cleansed twice with a nourishing shampoo to ensure that all bleach residue had been rinsed from the hair. I towel dried her and brought her back to my station to more precisely apply her toner.
Base Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
30g 6,18 (level 6 blue based ash with green)
30g 10 volume
Mids & Ends Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
15g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)
15g 8,18 (level 8 blue with green)
15g 7,21 (level 7 violet with blue)
45g 10 volume
I applied her base toner 4 inches down on her whole head, with the exception of her "money piece" area. There, I applied her base toner 1 inch down. I then combed her base toner through to blend into her midshaft and applied her end toner through her lengths and ends, making sure to fully saturate. Once fully applied, she processed for 20 minutes. We cleansed and conditioned with a color protecting and shine enhancing shampoo and conditioner. I cut and reshaped her hair (for the first time! Last time I wasn't allowed to cut as it had just been done). Her hair was prepped with a blow dry primer, pH balancing mist, and hydrating mousse. I blew her out with volume, curled with a 1 and 1/4 inch iron, then just kind of stared. This hair. I couldn't even believe our finished results! The hair felt absolutely silky, the shine was insane, and the even lift that was achieved was more than I could have hoped for.
Looking at these pictures I still just want to run my hands through her hair! THIS is the hair that matches how gorgeous this guest is on the inside, and I am so honored to have been able to give it to her.