The kind of color correction that feels like a breath of fresh air.
Sometimes, you go above and beyond behind the chair just for the sake of doing what is right. This head of hair is one of those scenarios. I began my day with a color reschedule leaving me with a gap at the end of my day. The barber in our salon approached me to let me know that a good family friend of his was in a hair predicament, and he thought that I would be up to the challenge. I asked for a few pictures of her hair currently to see if I had time, and I'm so glad that I did.
These aren't the pictures that I was given, but this is the hair that I was starting with. This hair had been colored three days prior.
I did NOT have time for what was needed to correct this hair fully (I had a 2 hour gap at the end of my day), but I couldn't say no. I felt like I could get this done in 3 hours, and that was good enough for me. We got her in my books right away and I started coming up with a game plan of how we could get the most impact with the least time.
She was starting with virgin level three hair, had asked for a neutral to cool balayaged look, and received this. The hardest part to correct in this hair wasn't the warmth, that can be addressed fairly easily, it was the hard lines. With so much contrast between her natural level 3 hair and warm level 8 blonde, there was a chance that her lines would still show through. Usually when darkening the hair 5 levels, filling is necessary so that the hair doesn't look hollow and reflects true to level and tone.
Without the time needed to give this a 100% overhaul, I felt confident that I could transform this head of hair in 3 hours with a little hustle and a little magic.
WHAT DID I DO
-Around her face, we wanted to have some lightness break up the hard line of demarcation so I chose to do a partial face framing babylight to break up that color and blend the dark into the light.
-I decided that the easiest way to blend out her hard lines was to drag her natural color from her base roughly 4 inches down. I chose a double pigmented color to get the most coverage of her strong lines possible without having to fill just that area of her hair.
-While her babylights were processing, I pulled color through her lengths and ends to give the strongest toning effect.
-Tone her babylights at the bowl once they lifted to a level 8.
AND I WASN'T ALLOWED TO CUT IT.
Babylight Formula :
12g violet based lightening powder
24g 30 Volume
40g 33,0 (level 3 double pigment natural)
60g 10 volume
Pull Through Formula:
40g 8,1 (level 8 blue based ash)
60g 10 volume
I began by applying her face framing babylights knowing that I wouldn't get an even lift if I tried to lift through such a dark and pigmented base color. Once my babylights were complete, I applied her base color in between her foils and through her back two quadrants. I applied her base color roughly 3 inches down and combed through her hair to ensure a gradient blend and to get coverage of the hard lines that existed in the back. This ended up dragging the color down a total of 4 inches.
Once all of this was done, I pulled color through all of her light lengths and ends to neutralize the bright brassy tones that we were currently seeing, careful not to overlap onto her still virgin areas of level 3. I knew that by coloring her dry hair with a blue based ash, I would get the most muscle to neutralize her hair and get the most longevity from it as well.
After all was applied, I allowed it to process for another 25 minutes (35 minutes is the recommended processing time for this color and 40 is the recommended time for this lightener). This gave her base color and her babylights their full processing time, and her ends enough time to neutralize with the 10 volume without over processing anything. Once she was done processing, I cleansed her twice with a color protect and shine enhancing shampoo, towel dried her, and toned her at the bowl. I let her toner sit for the full processing time of 15 minutes, then cleansed and conditioned with the same color protect and shine enhancing family.
20g 8,1 (level 8 blue based ash)
40g 5 volume
I then prepped her hair with a thermal protecting leave in conditioner, a nutrient dense oil and a blow dry primer. We blew her out smooth, and sat in complete awe at how different her hair looked. This 3 hour process gave us better results than either of us were hoping for.
We were both beyond thrilled. She took home everything that I recommended to maintain her color and hair integrity until our next appointment, felt completely confident in her hair again, and left absolutely beaming. I was so happy to be able to offer her this hair after her initial experience left her with much to be desired.