Updated: Feb 18, 2020
An icy platinum blonde bob to die for
We all know that silver hair took the world by storm a few years ago and has been holding on for dear life, but how many of our guests who have wanted this color are actually the perfect candidate?! Well, I had that magic moment. A natural level 8 with existing platinum lengths and ends who wanted a pastel silver. Oh man, so much satisfaction in one color application!
Naturally a level 8 with no grey hair, her texture is very fine. Having her as a bleach and tone guest for the last 5 months, I know that she pulls very warm. I decided to address her regrowth as usual, and adjust our toner formula and timing to give her a pure, even silver.
Guys, what an easy application for a super cool toned blonde! I think I speak for most of us when I say that the guests usually asking for this color end up as major color corrections, even if they are current guests. The ability to just say "YES! I love that for you!" without having to explain the chemical process of why she couldn't have that today was the most refreshing, and I hope that everyone gets to have that experience at least once behind the chair.
WHAT DID I DO
Since this blonde beauty is a regular bleach and tone, I knew that our first step was to bleach her base. With bleach and tones, I like to alternate our starting point so that the same hair isn't sitting with lightener on it the longest every application. My favorite way to do this is to section the hair into quadrants, and alternate the back two quadrants. One application I will begin from the bottom of the right quadrant, the next application I will begin from the bottom of the left quadrant, the next application the top of the right, then the top of the left and repeat. As the hair in the front two quadrants is more fine and the sections are smaller, I never begin in the front.
This time, I began at the top of the left quadrant and worked my way down, then the top of the right quadrant and did this until I completed her bleach touch up. I was very careful not to overlap onto her existing prelightened hair, and watch her closely after application is complete. She doesn't process for very long, so it's important to keep a watchful eye to ensure hair and scalp health.
60g powdered lightener
90g 20 volume
Processed for 15 minutes
Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
55g Steel (level-less pastel grey/blue)
10g Gloss (clear)
10g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)
75g 10 volume
Processed for 20 minutes
I used 20 Volume lightener even thought her natural base is so light because she pulls SO yellow. I've used 10 volume previously and wasn't a huge fan of the length of time it needed to process, so we've upped the developer to 20 volume and I've been happier with the results! Once her retouch was fully applied, we allowed it to process for 15 minutes before rinsing and cleansing twice to ensure all bleach residue was removed.
I then mixed her toner, applied and made sure to saturate fully, then allowed it to process for the full processing time of 20 minutes. Once her toner was finished processing, I cleansed and conditioned with a protein based family. We then applied a nutrient dense leave in conditioner, volumizing mist and an amino acid building foam. We cut a strong triangular line and evened out her existing asymmetry for a fresh take on her overall look! I blew her out with smooth lift and movement and we just swooned for a bit.
This smoke show is EVERYTHING. We were both obsessing over the final result! Had he removed her toner sooner than the full recommended processing time, we wouldn't have achieved this icy of a finish. Don't be scared of the oxidization! Just formulate to exactly where you're going and trust the process.
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What I Used:
Davines Mask Powdered Lightener, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products
Dyson Blow Dryer
Shuhari Pro Round Brush
YS Park Clips