Changing the color placement and palette of a previously balayaged babe
Sometimes our guests come in just ready for a change. A hair color overhaul, if you will. Today was that day for us. We have been balayaging this head of hair for one full year, and it was time for something new. She came to me with a picture of a lightly rooted blonde, bright neutral ends & a gorgeous curtain bang! For reference, this was our first balayage application. You can see how far we have already come!
Our starting palette was 3 inches of natural level 5 outgrowth, level 5 (faded from a 4) previously colored outgrowth, and levels 9 & 10 through her ends. Since the midshaft had been colored with a liquid demi-permanent color, I knew that it would lift with ease.
To the right is an image of our starting point. You can see that we have outgrown balayage, with her ends being very bright. She brought in beautiful inspiration images with a much smaller rooted area, more neutral tones and a lighter midshaft. Having been her hairdresser for the past year, I know how she lifts! I also know her full hair history, which is hugely helpful! Her hair lifts very well, the primary issue is the warmth exposed after lifting. She will easily lift to a level 9 (even through her previously demi permanent colored level 4), but it lifts yellow.
WHAT DID I DO
Knowing that our overall goal was to be lighter, I decided to utilize her natural base color for her darker root, rather than coloring it. We aren't combating grey, so it made sense to use her natural level 5 to our advantage. This will create a much softer grow out.
I chose to apply a full head of babylights (or a micro weave) from nape to hairline to break up her darker base. I used two different volumes of lightener, one for her base and darker mids, and one for her lighter ends. As the goal was to lift her lighter and make her overall more neutral, I knew the only way we would see longevity in her tone was to lift her past that bright warmth that we were used to seeing and embracing.
Base & Midshaft: 25 & 30 Volume violet powdered lightener
Ends: 5 Volume violet powdered lightener
Both formulas mixed 1:2
Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
50g 9,0 (level 9 natural / neutral)
2g Amethyst (level-less blue violet)
52g 10 Volume
Processed for 15 minutes
These formulas are pretty straight forward! I applied her micro weave through the back of her head by taking 1.5 inch diagonal back sections following her hairline, then one horizontal section in between, and following that pattern all the way up through her crown. I then applied her micro weave in a diagonal back section following her hairline through the sides of her head. These sections were a triangular pattern coming to a point at her apex, to meet her back section. The final sectioning was a triangle over the top of her head with the point at her apex, coming just outside of her recessions on her hairline. I applied three back to back micro weave foils on either side of her hairline to keep the hair around her face nice and light, while still remaining soft. The rest of the section was then applied in a pivoting section continuing with the micro weave that we had utilized on the rest of her head.
It took roughly 50 minutes to apply her whole head. Once application was complete, we let her process for a full 35 minutes, until she had lifted to a clean level 9 through her mids, and a 10 through her ends.
We then removed her foils, cleansed twice to remove all lightener residue from the hair, towel dried and applied her toner from base to ends. After ensuring full saturation, we allowed the toner to sit for 15 minutes before cleansing and conditioning with a softening shampoo and conditioner.
Once she was back in my chair, we cleaned up her cut with the addition of sassy curtain bangs, applied a beta carotene rich leave in conditioner, nutrient dense oil, and a hydrating mousse. I blew her out with soft volume and movement, and we fan girled over her new color!
We were so ready for an updated color, and this checked all of the boxes! I couldn't be happier with this end result, and she was just beaming!
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What I Used:
Davines Mask With Vibrachrom Permanent Color, Century Of Light Progress Lightener, View Liquid Demi-Permanent Color & Products
Dyson Blow Dryer