3rd time is the charm for this perfect head of rooted blonde hair
You guys may remember this gorgeous woman from this post. My girl has been coming to me since she moved here from Florida last year, and this head of hair has TRANSFORMED. When we began, there was some crazy spotting from a reaction her hair had to a brand of tape and adhesive remover used in extensions. Needless to say, we removed the extensions and began our journey to total hair health. After our first application we were SO happy with progress made, but knew that there was more work to be done.
Between the last post featuring my blonde fitness guru, we had another lightening session. This involved going through her head and picking out all of the pieces through her ends that had only been lifted a level 8 previously. When we applied her initial color, the integrity of her hair would not allow for any lightening through her ends, so we only focused on her regrowth. The second time, we had enough hair health to be confident that 10 volume lightener for 15 minutes through those darker pieces wouldn't cause stress to her hair.
As we can see, her hair still grew in very blended, but we want this hair to stay as fresh as we can keep it. Without her extensions to maintain, we can really focus on HER hair, specifically her hair color and hair health. Her roots are longer than we would like them to be, her ends have warmed up since our last appointment, and we are due for a trim. We also decided to make the hair around her face brighter to give her a new pop to the look we are going for.
WHAT DID I DO
FULL. BABYLIGHT. From nape to hairline, we took microscopic sections in an extremely fine weave to get maximum lift and blend without giving her a highlighted look. This particular head of hair can be difficult to foil because of her natural texture. She has a curl to the back of her hair and quite a bit of frizz in the front, but a very fine density. Getting this hair to stay in a foil requires VERY precise and secure foils to allow for an "I grew it myself" look.
112 foils. That is what it took to give her a seamless blend, and this is what 112 precisely applied foils looks like.
10g violet powdered lightener
20g 25, 30 & 35 volume
Processed for 20 minutes
Toner (liquid demi-permanent):
10g 8,23 (level 8 violet with gold)
10g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)
60g 10 Volume
Processed for 15 minutes
We began in the nape area to allow us to pull and rinse her foils easily if they finished processing before the rest of her hair. Once the back two quadrants of her hair were finished, I moved to applying her sides and finished with the top. For the back two quadrants I used 25 volume lightener, through her sides I used 30 volume, and I finished with 35 on the top. There are a lot of different names for the act of remixing and bumping up your developer, I personally prefer calling it developer balancing. We formulated a new bowl of lightener through our various sections to allow for fresh lightener to always be applied to the head ensuring a clean and even lift. We also did this to allow all of the hair to finish processing at the same time.
We kept a close eye on her lifting process to ensure that we rinsed as soon as she was done. This particular lightener has a processing time of 40 minutes, but I knew it wouldn't take the full time to get to where we were going.
When she was finished lifting, we cleansed her twice with a hydrating shampoo to remove all lightener residue, towel dried, then applied our toner. Her toner processed for 15 minutes and brought us to the perfect bright beige that we just love. Once her toner was done processing, we cleansed and conditioned with a moisturizing family, trimmed her ends, and applied an amino acid leave in treatment and styling aid. I finished her style with a 1 1/4 inch marcel iron and we both ran outside to start snapping pictures!
I absolutely love spending time with this beauty in my chair, and even more I LOVE what we have been able to do with her hair in such a short period of time! Below you will find before and afters from BEFORE THE FIRST TIME that we colored to now. I can't stop staring!