Updated: Jun 5, 2019
A total transformation of overgrown blotchy blonde to the perfect beige
My girl is KILLING IT in this photo!! I mean... the jean jacket, the smile, the hair, the energy, who doesn't want this?! I can't even wait to show you our journey.
M came to me as a Florida transplant to the Midwest in need of maintaining her tape in extensions. I have been dying to do a post of various types of extensions, and it's coming guys I promise, but today will be the teaser. As a general rule of thumb, I don't offer tape ins as an option behind the chair. Gasp away, I just won't do it. Why, you ask, do I refuse such a popular and high dollar service? Because they TRASH YOUR HAIR over time. I don't care if you are a literal tape in genie, that hair will be damaged. There is absolutely nothing you can do to stop it.
When M sat in my chair, she had tape ins currently in her head, and had spent a LOT of money on a recommended tape in line from her previous stylist. I don't want to say that her previous stylist straight up did her dirty, because she probably meant well, but the line she had in her head did not stand up well to time, and the line she had purchased with the intention of using immediately did not seem promising. To start, the extension company allows purchasing options from non licensed professionals for a "professional" product. RED FLAG NUMBER ONE. Reputable extension companies not only require a valid cosmetology license, they also require a certification through their company to ensure that you know how to properly use that specific style of extension.
Why don't I offer tape ins? To PROPERLY install and remove tape ins, the time needed is astronomical. Many stylists just remove the hair and immediately reapply it on natural hair that has not been cleansed, has not had the tape residue removed, and has not even been brushed out. This causes a sticky residue build up, tangling, matting, and eventually breakage and major damage. If your stylist takes less than 3 hours to remove your tape ins, remove the tape residue from your hair, blow you out AND reapply your tape ins, run. Get out of there as fast as you can, because girlfriend your hair will all break off.
So here is the kicker. When M came to me, her hair was a natural level 5 with BLEED MARKS of a golden level 8. Her hair had not undergone a chemical process (outside of toning with a liquid demi) in one year. The bleed marks were a combination of the hair extension adhesive and recommended removal solvent reacting on her hair. The combination literally lifted her hair color and left her with bleed marks in the spots where her tape ins were.
I cannot stress enough, unless you have attended continuous education, spent hours researching from both a stylist an consumer perspective AND have the proper tools, PLEASE do not attempt a head of hair like this. This takes intent, a gentle touch, and rigorous formulation.
WHAT DID I DO
Our goal was to break up her naturally dark base and blend into her bleach processed ends, blend out her fresh bleed marks, and cool her off without making her dark or drab. Sounds like a pretty tall order, right? RIGHT.
20g Violet Lightening Powder
40g 25, 30 & 35 Volume Developer
Processed for 15 minutes
I have not colored her hair before, but I HAVE deep conditioned, toned and blown it out so I have a fair idea of how she will lift and what we can make possible in one appointment just by understanding her natural texture. I also know that she is ready to commit to a higher maintenance hair schedule color wise since she is no longer dealing with extensions.
WHY DID I DO IT
I started her foils in the back, in case by the time we finished they were ready to be rinsed. I ensured to remix her lightener every 15 minutes to keep the lightener fresh and active, resulting in a more even and clean lift. By the time I finished her application, I had remixed three times with 25, 30 & 35 volume respectively. Once her full head was applied, I allowed it to process for another 15 minutes, until her last foils had lifted to a level 10 with minimal warmth.
At this point I removed all of her foils and cleansed her twice with a shampoo made for brittle and bleach processed hair. I then brought her back to my chair and applied two separate toning formulas at her base and ends!
Base Toner (liquid demi-permenant):
18g 8,23 (level 8 Violet with Gold)
18g 7,0 (level 7 neutral)
36g 10 volume
End Toner (liquid demi-permenant):
20g 9,22 (level 9 Double Violet)
40g Gloss (Clear)
60g 10 volume
This processed for the full recommended processing time of 20 minutes. I then cleansed and conditioned her with an anti breakage line, prepped her hair with a nutrient dense leave in conditioner and a thermal protectant.
I blew her out BEFORE cutting because I wanted to preserve length as much as possible. Once she was dried and smooth, I trimmed her length as much as needed, then began styling.
I prepped her hair with a medium hold hairspray and curled with a 1 1/4 inch marcel iron to give us this beach-y finish! As you can tell, this beauty LOVED her hair! It is the perfect beige tone for her skin, and she was all smiles!
Check out my girl at her health & fitness blog Simply Mander. She is all about health and wellness and has some killer recipes! And now, her videos will be featuring her new hair that we are in LOVE with!
As you've already read here, I will be headlining in an independently run hair show, The Artistic Collective, this September 29th & 30th in Chicago, IL! I will of COURSE be teaching color theory IN PERSON, and it's something you don't want to miss!! We have a start studded line up of educators and I couldn't be more excited to be sharing the stage with these industry giants!! Right now, the tickets are $675, and I recommend to JUMP ON THEM because the price will be raising to $775 on 6/1! All purchases of Dreaming In Color get you a code for $100 off your ticket purchase, so grab a book AND your ticket at the price of $575 just for my book supporters!
Line up as follows: