From long overgrown blonde to an icy mid length goddess
BREAKING NEWS! Since the inception of The Formulation Files, I have been working as a commission stylist at a beautiful salon. Just this week I took the leap and became my own boss babe at a brand new rental salon in the most jaw dropping building! Prepare for a change of scenery in my images, and all the exposed brick!
This stunner came to me as a first time referral from one of my dear existing guests who I just love. The best new guest is one that a current guest sends you. What an amazing compliment, right?! So with the change of work venues, some appointments have been adjusted and my blonde Barbie was ready to get in my chair. We squeezed her in and extended work hours to give her the hair of her dreams, and I vow to never change her formula as long as she stays blonde. I'm in love, guys. Like... deeply in love with this transformation.
This beaut colors her hair roughly 3-4 times per year, and oh man does she have some hair. With her natural level being a 7, and her ends a very warm 10, she wanted to blend out her regrowth and get tons of this hair OFF of her head.
Her exact color request was "as close to platinum as we can get, without actually being platinum". We dubbed this color "platinum-ish". To the right is our starting point! I'm sure you can tell just from looking at it that this hair is dense. Throw a three strand braid in it and you have a rope that could have saved the Titanic, y'all. First things first, this hair needed a solid cut, and there was no way I was touching color to her head before that was done!
WHAT DID I DO
We started by cutting off nearly 12 inches of hair. Take it all in. Can you hear the sound of the shears cutting through this hair!? That is what magic sounds like. I cut her perimeter into a square line, then cut her interior at maximum elevation using a back cutting technique with my shears in a slightly rounded shape. Once we had our cut in place (and relieved ourselves of actual pounds of hair) I was able to get moving on this platinum-ish color.
30g blue base ammonia free lightener
60g 30 Volume
processed for 25 minutes
25g 9,22 (level 9 double violet)
5g 8,23 (level 8 violet with gold)
30g Gloss (clear)
60g 10 volume
processed for 15 minutes
These foils are JAM. PACKED. Her hair has a medium to course texture to it (and quite a bit of product build up), so even though her starting level is light, I knew that I needed muscle to cut through that product and lift her light enough. I used a slightly off center chevron pattern through the top horseshoe of her head. She sometimes parts her hair down the center, and sometimes to the side, so by moving our parting slightly off center this allows for her to flip her part all over and have that same gorgeous to-the-scalp fresh color no matter where it lands! I began in the back of her hair, worked by way through the TOP, then finished with her sides.
The top of her hair had a courser texture than the sides of her hair, so I knew that they would take longer to process. Once her foils were applied, we processed for 25 minutes, then pulled her foils and shampooed twice with a clarifying shampoo. Her starting canvas had quite a bit of build up from her regular use conditioner, and in order for us to properly tone, it all needed to be removed! After clarifying I applied her toner from scalp to ends at the bowl on her towel dried hair, processed for 15 minutes, then cleansed and conditioned with a nourishing line.
Since her hair was already cut, all I needed to do was style her! I prepped her hair with a nutrient rich leave in conditioner and hydrating mousse, then styled with volume at her base and smoothed her ends. I really wanted to see this hair color and newly cut texture! Once she was dry, I used a lightweight serum cocktailed with a softening oil to polish any flyaways, then blasted her with a fair amount of an aerosol texturizing spray. Thank goodness we were some of the last people left in the salon, because we were SO LOUD swooning over this hair and holding a literal photoshoot in the salon! Love is an understatement. I would call this hair "Better Than Platinum" rather than "platinum-ish".
This hair, this girl, this salon space. I'm so inspired by them all. Follow @theformulationfiles on Instagram to stay up to date on daily happenings and behind the chair videos, and leave a comment below with content that you want to see featured on The Formulation Files!
What I Used:
Color & Product Line - Davines
Blow Dryer - Dyson
Foils - Reynolds 711